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Fujiya

Locally knownKnown to people who live here. Not in the international guidebooks.

调查与撰写 Hinato

Okinawan zenzaiFujiyashaved iceNahaTomari

冲绳县 · Naha

26.2244°N, 127.6871°E

Okinawan zenzai is not the hot red bean soup served everywhere else in Japan under the same name. It is cold: sweetened kintoki beans stewed with brown sugar, buried under a mound of shaved ice, sometimes with mochi. In a climate like this the reversal makes complete sense.

Fujiya's contribution is the ice. Instead of freezing water, it freezes the syrup the beans were cooked in, so that as the shaved ice melts the drink does not thin out — it gets sweeter. The texture is closer to a coarse sorbet than to kakigori. The shop is a small one near Tomari elementary school rather than on the tourist strip, and it opens at eleven and closes at seven, or eight in high summer.

基本信息

营业时间

11:00 AM – 7:00 PM (October–May) | 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM (June–September)

公休: Confirm before travelling

门票

Fujiya zenzai from around ¥460 | Other Okinawan zenzai from around ¥420

最佳季节

Year-round | Summer, which is what it exists for

建议停留

20–30 minutes

如何前往

交通信息

Naha, near Tomari elementary school. Walking distance from Miebashi Station on the Okinawa monorail or a short taxi ride from Kokusai-dori. Fujiya zenzai from around ¥460; other Okinawan zenzai from around ¥420. Takeaway available.

独家私藏情报

**The ice is made of the bean syrup.** That is the whole difference. It means the last spoonful is as sweet as the first, where ordinary shaved ice goes watery. **It is cold, not hot.** Zenzai everywhere else in Japan is a warm soup. Ordering it expecting that is the standard mainland-visitor confusion. **Longer hours in summer.** To 8:00 PM from June to September, 7:00 PM the rest of the year. **Not on Kokusai-dori.** Tomari is a residential part of Naha a little north of the tourist street, which is why the queue is local. **Takeaway works.** It travels for a short distance, which makes it viable to eat by the water at Tomari port.

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