Kushiro Robatayaki

**What to order:** Hokke (atka mackerel, ¥800-1,200) is the signature — fatty, flaky, intensely savory. Also order kinki (idiot fish, 金目鯛の一種, ¥1,500, seasonal), scallops (¥600), sanma (pacific saury, seasonal Sept-Nov, ¥700), and grilled vegetables (shiitake, eggplant, bell pepper, ¥300-500 each). Everything is cooked to order — expect 5-10 minute waits per item. Pair with local sake (Fukutsukasa from Kushiro brewery, ¥800-1,200 per glass). **Robatayaki etiquette:** Sit at the counter surrounding the irori hearth for full experience (tables are available but miss the theater). Point at ingredients displayed around the hearth, and the chef will nod and begin grilling. Food is passed to you on a long wooden paddle (called a shakushi) — take the plate and return the paddle. Don't reach across the hearth (fire hazard). The chef interacts with diners — limited English but gestures suffice. **Seasonal specialties:** Autumn (Sept-Nov): sanma (pacific saury, oily and rich). Winter (Dec-Feb): crab, cod milt (shirako). Spring (Apr-May): Hokkaido surf clam. Summer (Jun-Aug): sea urchin, salmon. Ask for 'kyo no osusume' (today's recommendations) for seasonal highlights. **Atmosphere:** Robata Sakaba is smoky, loud, and energetic — the chef calls out orders, smoke billows from the charcoal, and locals drink sake and beer. This is working-class Kushiro dining, not refined kaiseki. Dress casually and embrace the convivial chaos.