Iwaki 3.11 Memorial and Revitalization Museum

**It stands where it happened.** Usuiso was largely destroyed and the museum is on that ground rather than in the city centre. Walk to the sea wall afterwards. **Book a storyteller.** The talks by residents are what distinguishes this from a display of objects, and they need arranging ahead. **It pairs with Futaba.** The prefectural museum covers the nuclear accident; this one covers the tsunami and the reception of evacuees in a city that was itself hit. Doing both gives the full picture. **Toyoma Lighthouse is close by.** On the headland above the beach, with a view along the coast that makes the geography of the wave legible. **Iwaki is the accessible base.** It is the largest city on the Fukushima coast and the practical starting point for the whole Hamadori route north.