Ibaraki Hidden Gems
Ibaraki is close enough to Tokyo to be a day trip and far enough that almost nobody treats it as one, which is the whole opportunity. The prefecture is mostly flat farmland — it grows more of several crops than anywhere else in Japan, including the natto soybeans it is teased for — with Lake Kasumigaura, the second-largest lake in the country, spread shallow across the south. The coast north of Hitachi is the interesting edge: cliffs and reefs rather than beach, with the torii at Oarai standing out in the surf. Mito was a Tokugawa branch domain and its scholars did much of the intellectual work that helped end the shogunate, which is why Kairakuen, one of the three great gardens, was built as a public park rather than a lord's private one. The flower parks are the modern draw and are engineered around single species, so a visit outside their few weeks is a visit to a hillside of stems.
36 spots
Climate & Best Season
Mild and relatively dry, with warm summers and little snow. Spring (nemophila) and autumn (kochia) are the signature seasons.
Famous For (Food)
- Natto
- Melon
- Anko-nabe (monkfish hotpot)
- Chestnuts
Signature Sights
- Hitachi Seaside Park
- Kairakuen plum garden
- Fukuroda Falls
- Ushiku Daibutsu
When to Go
Two weeks matter more than the rest of the year. The nemophila on Miharashi Hill at Hitachi Seaside Park turn the slope blue from mid-April into early May, and the kochia on the same hill turn red in mid-October. Kairakuen's plum blossoms come earlier, in late February and March, when the rest of Japan is still waiting. Ibaraki's winters are dry and sunny with little snow and January highs near 10°C; summers are hot and humid in the low 30s°C. Golden Week is when the seaside park is at its most crowded — arrive at opening or skip it.
Getting Around
The Joban line is the spine: limited express trains from Tokyo's Ueno and Shinagawa reach Mito in about 70 minutes and Katsuta, the station for Hitachi Seaside Park, a few minutes later. Ibaraki Airport handles a small number of domestic and Asian routes and is not a practical entry point for most travellers. Buses cover the last stretch to the seaside park and to Oarai, and the Oarai Kashima line serves the coast. Fukuroda Falls needs a bus from Fukuroda Station on the Suigun line, which runs infrequently. The Kasumigaura shore and the rural pottery towns are far easier with a car.
Local Food
Natto is the prefecture's signature and Mito has sold it at the station for over a century; the small-bean version made here is milder than the supermarket standard. Ibaraki grows more melons than anywhere else in Japan, ripening from May through July. Anko-nabe, a hotpot built around monkfish and its liver, is a winter dish along the northern coast at Kitaibaraki. Chestnuts from Kasama come in September and October, and the same town has made pottery since the Edo period.
Hirakata Port Anko Nabe
Monkfish is ugly, gelatinous and almost entirely edible — the Japanese phrase is that seven parts of it can be eaten, in…
Nakaminato Fish Market
Nakaminato is a working fishing port on the Ibaraki coast and the market beside it is where the boats' catch is sold dir…
Hananuki Gorge
Hananuki is a narrow river valley in the hills behind Takahagi, and the thing everyone comes for is a sixty-metre footbr…
Makabe Historic District
Makabe began as the castle town of the medieval Makabe clan and grew into a market town under the Tokugawa, and the stre…
Ushiku Chateau
Kamiya Denbei made his money on Denki Bran, the brandy-based liqueur still served at his bar in Asakusa, and in 1903 he…
Kashima Jingu
Kashima Jingu enshrines Takemikazuchi, the thunder and sword deity who in the myths subdues the land and, in later belie…
Amabiki Kannon
Amabikisan Rakuhoji is a hillside temple founded, by its own account, in 587, and for centuries it has been the place pe…
Shizumine Furusato Park
Almost every cherry blossom site in Japan is somei-yoshino, the pale single-flowered clone that blooms and drops within…
Shunpu Manriso
Kitaoji Rosanjin was a calligrapher, a potter, a restaurateur and by most accounts extremely difficult to be around, and…
Yokaren Peace Memorial Museum
The Yokaren was the Imperial Navy's preparatory flight training programme, and from 1939 the main training base was at T…
Seizanso
Tokugawa Mitsukuni is one of the most recognisable figures in Japan — as Mito Komon, the disguised elderly lord of a lon…
Tsukimachi Falls
Tsukimachi is 17 metres high and 12 metres wide and comes down in three separate strands, and its local name is the fall…
Howaen
Howaen began as the garden of a temple, was expanded by Tokugawa Mitsukuni in the seventeenth century, and is now a smal…
Oiwa Shrine
Mt. Oiwa is described in local record as the oldest sacred mountain in the old province of Hitachi, and the shrine at it…
Ikisu Shrine
Ikisu is the third and least visited of the Toogoku Sanja, the three shrines of the east that Kashima and Katori complet…
Hitachi Izumo Taisha
In 1992 the great shrine of Izumo in Shimane divided its deity and enshrined it here, on a hillside beside Route 50 in K…
Hirasawa Kanga Ruins
In the eighth century the province of Hitachi was administered through district offices, and the one for Tsukuba distric…
Izura Rokkakudo
Okakura Tenshin wrote The Book of Tea, ran the Tokyo School of Fine Arts, curated Asian art in Boston, and argued that A…
Ryujin Suspension Bridge
The Ryujin bridge is a pedestrian span 375 metres long, strung 100 metres above a dammed gorge in the hills of Hitachiot…
Mount Tsukuba
Mount Tsukuba is a twin-peaked mountain rising 877 meters from rice fields and suburban sprawl, visible from Tokyo on cl…
Ajigaura Beach
Ajigaura Beach is a 4-kilometer stretch of sandy coastline facing the open Pacific, known as one of Kanto's best surf br…
Tsukuba Science City
Tsukuba was purpose-built in the 1960s as Japan's science city, a planned urban environment designed to concentrate the…
Oarai Fish Market
Oarai Port lands some of the finest Pacific seafood in the Kanto region — flatfish (hirame), Pacific saury (sanma), monk…
Senba Lake Cycling
Senba Lake is a narrow, 12-kilometer-long reservoir on the northern edge of Mito City, created by damming the Naka River…
Kasama Pottery
Kasama-yaki pottery has been produced in this hillside town for over 250 years. Unlike the aristocratic refinement of Ar…
Kasama Himatsuri
The Kasama Himatsuri (Fire Festival) is an annual late-April event when the historic 11-chamber Nikko-gama climbing kiln…
Tsukuba Winery
Ushiku Chateau (despite the name, located in Ushiku, not Tsukuba) is Japan's oldest winery, established in 1903 by entre…
Oarai Beach
Oarai Sun Beach is a 1.5-kilometer crescent of pale sand facing the Pacific, backed by pine groves and bordered by rocky…
Hitachi Seaside Park
Hitachi Seaside Park transforms twice a year into one of Japan's most photographed landscapes. In late April through mid…
Kairakuen Garden
Kairakuen is one of Japan's Three Great Gardens, but unlike the meticulous aristocratic gardens of Kanazawa and Okayama,…
Ushiku Daibutsu
Ushiku Daibutsu is a 120-meter-tall bronze statue of Amitabha Buddha, standing in a lotus garden surrounded by flat farm…
Oarai Aquarium
Aqua World Oarai is one of Japan's largest aquariums, specializing in sharks (54 species, the most of any aquarium in Ja…
Mito Natto
Natto — fermented soybeans bound by sticky, stringy threads — is Japan's most divisive food, beloved by locals and bewil…
Kasama Inari Shrine
Kasama Inari Shrine is one of Japan's three great Inari shrines, dedicated to Ukanomitama-no-mikoto, the Shinto deity of…
Kamiiso no Torii
A single vermilion torii gate stands on a jagged rock platform where waves explode into white spray at high tide. Kamiis…
Kodokan
Kodokan was established in 1841 by Tokugawa Nariaki as the educational heart of Mito Domain, embodying the Mito School o…
