Ezawa
Representative image — not a photograph of this location.
Katsuura tantanmen is not Sichuan tantanmen and does not pretend to be. There is no sesame paste and no peanut. It is a soy-based chicken, pork and seafood broth with a thick layer of house-made chilli oil on top, minced pork, and — the detail that makes it — chopped onion cooked down until sweet. It was invented at this shop in the 1950s by a cook who took the idea of Sichuan dry tantanmen and put it into his own shoyu ramen, and it caught on because fishermen and ama divers coming out of cold water wanted something that would warm them from the inside.
Ezawa opened in 1954 and is the origin shop. The chilli oil is red enough to be startling and the heat is real but not punishing; the onion is why. It is out in the hills above the town rather than in the port, opens at half past eleven, closes when the soup runs out, and takes Mondays off. There is normally a queue.
Essential Information
Opening Hours
11:30 AM – 6:00 PM (closes when the soup runs out)
Closed: Closed Mondays
Entrance Fee
Tantanmen around ¥880 | Jo-tantanmen around ¥990 | Chashu tantanmen around ¥1,210
Best Season
Year-round | Winter, which is what the dish was invented for
Visit Duration
45–60 minutes including the queue
Getting There
Access Information
Insider Guide
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