Hokusai Museum

Hokusaiukiyo-eceiling muralsObuseEdo period art

Nagano · Obuse

36.6978°N, 138.3142°E

The Hokusai-kan Museum (北斎館) in Obuse displays works by ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849) created during the final years of his life, when he lived in Obuse under the patronage of wealthy merchant Takai Kozan. Hokusai visited Obuse four times between ages 83 and 88, producing some of his most dynamic late-period paintings and ceiling murals for local temples.

The museum's highlight is two original festival floats (dashi) featuring Hokusai's painted ceiling panels — one depicting a phoenix (鳳凰図), the other depicting masculine and feminine waves (男浪・女浪図). These large-format works showcase Hokusai's mastery of composition and energy despite his advanced age. The museum also exhibits rare illustrated books and sketches. For Hokusai scholars, this collection reveals an often-overlooked chapter of his artistic evolution.

Essential Information

Opening Hours

9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM)

Closed: Closed during year-end period

Entrance Fee

¥1,000 adults | Ganshoin Temple: ¥300 | Takai Kozan Memorial Museum (next door): ¥600

Best Season

Year-round | Autumn (October, chestnut season + foliage) | Pair with Obuse chestnut sweets visit

Visit Duration

45–60 minutes (museum only) | 90 minutes combined with Takai Kozan Museum and Ganshoin Temple

Getting There

Access Information

Obuse Town, near Obuse Station. Entry: ¥1,000 (adults). Visit duration: 45-60 minutes. Combine with Ganshoin Temple (岩松院, a short walk, ¥300) which preserves Hokusai's original Phoenix ceiling mural.

Insider Guide

Premium

**Festival float paintings:** The two ceiling panels displayed in the museum were originally mounted on festival floats paraded during Obuse's annual matsuri. The phoenix panel (1844–1848, painted when Hokusai was 84–88) is 4 meters across and features explosive brushwork. Viewing from multiple angles reveals the composition's dynamism — Hokusai designed it to be seen from below while the float was moving. **Ganshoin Temple ceiling:** This temple (a short walk uphill from museum) preserves Hokusai's largest painting — a 21-tatami-mat ceiling mural of a phoenix (八方睨み鳳凰図, 'Phoenix Glaring in Eight Directions,' painted 1848). The bird's gaze seems to follow viewers from any angle. The temple is active, so visit quietly. Photography prohibited inside but postcards available (¥200). **Hokusai's Obuse connection:** Hokusai was invited to Obuse by Takai Kozan, a wealthy farmer-merchant who admired his art. Hokusai lived in Kozan's estate (now the Takai Kozan Memorial Museum, next door, ¥600 entry) during his visits. The two museums can be visited together in 90 minutes. **Museum shop:** Limited-edition reproductions of Hokusai's Obuse works (¥2,000–5,000 for prints) and scholarly catalogs (¥3,500, Japanese only) unavailable in Tokyo. For serious collectors, the shop occasionally sells original ukiyo-e prints (¥50,000+) — inquire at counter.

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