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Matsudai Nohbutai

Little knownBarely documented in English. This is the kind of place the site exists for.

調査・執筆 Hinato

Echigo-Tsumaricontemporary artrice terracesMVRDVTokamachi

Photo: Kentaro Ohno / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0) · original

Matsudai Nohbutai is the working centre of the Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, the permanent art landscape that grew out of a triennial started in 2000 to do something about depopulation in the snow country. The building, by the Dutch practice MVRDV, is lifted clear of the ground on legs so that snow can pass underneath it, and it sits in the middle of terraced rice fields rather than in a town.

What makes it more than a gallery is that the artworks are in the fields. Kabakov's Rice Field puts painted figures out among the terraces so that they line up with a text panel only from one viewing point; other pieces are scattered across the hillside and reached on foot. The permanent works stay up between triennials, and the site functions year-round as a museum whose exhibits happen to be farmland.

基本情報

営業時間

10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM)

定休日: Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays except public holidays

料金

¥1,200 adults for the Field Museum ticket | ¥600 elementary and junior high school | ¥600 adults for the Nohbutai building alone | Preschool free

ベストシーズン

Late May–June for flooded reflecting terraces | May–end of October while outdoor works are accessible

滞在目安

2–3 hours

アクセス

アクセス情報

Matsudai 3743-1, Tokamachi City, directly beside Matsudai Station on the Hokuhoku Line. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays except public holidays. Field Museum ticket ¥1,200 adults, ¥600 elementary and junior high school, preschool free; Nohbutai building alone ¥600 adults, ¥300 elementary and junior high school. Outdoor works are generally accessible from May to the end of October.

インサイダーガイド

**Buy the Field Museum ticket, not the building ticket.** The building alone is a lobby, a restaurant and a couple of rooms. The ticket that includes the outdoor works and Matsudai Castle is what the trip is for, and the difference is ¥600. **Wear shoes for a hillside.** The outdoor works are spread across terraced fields on unpaved paths. This is not a gallery floor. **Kabakov's Rice Field only works from the platform.** The figures in the terraces align with the poem on the frame from one position on the Nohbutai deck and from nowhere else. Find the spot before photographing. **The restaurant is part of the project.** Satoyama Shokudo serves the local vegetables and the ingredient list is the point rather than a nicety. Lunch service is short. **Snow closes the outdoors.** From November the fields are under metres of snow and only the building operates. Late May, when the terraces are flooded and reflecting, is the best single window.

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