Katsuo no Tataki — Straw-Flame Seared Bonito

Katsuo no tataki is the soul of Kochi cuisine — fresh skipjack tuna (bonito) seared over roaring straw flames for 20 seconds per side, then sliced thick and served with garlic, ginger, and ponzu. The straw-fire technique (warayaki) produces a char that gas grills cannot replicate: smoky, intense, with a flavor that oscillates between raw and cooked. The center remains ruby-red and cool; the exterior is caramelized to black in spots.

The dish was invented in Kochi during the Edo period as a method to preserve fish during transport. Today it is the prefecture's signature food, served everywhere from izakaya to Michelin-recognized specialists. Hirome Market in central Kochi is the most accessible entry point — dozens of stalls sell tataki prepared to order, flame-seared in outdoor grills visible from the street. You buy, sit at communal tables, and eat alongside locals who have been doing this weekly since childhood.