Hitsumabushi

**Horaiken timing:** Beat this by arriving at 10:50 before the 11:00 opening. Weekdays drop waits to 30–45 minutes. The Matsuzakaya department store branch in downtown Nagoya serves identical food with 60% shorter waits (¥3,800–5,500). The main shop's tatami rooms overlook a garden, worth the wait if time permits. **Three stages executed:** Stage 1: Use the wooden paddle (shamoji) to scoop one-quarter into your bowl. Eat plain, tasting charcoal char and sweet tare glaze on the eel. Stage 2: Add wasabi (cuts richness), green onions (freshness), and nori (ocean umami). Stage 3: Pour hot dashi or green tea over rice and eel, creating soup that cleanses your palate. Stage 4: Repeat whichever method you preferred. Most people choose ochazuke for the final portion. **Eel quality markers:** Menus note eel origin. Domestic (国産鰻, kokusan unagi) from Mikawa Bay or Shizuoka tastes meatier and cleaner. Chinese imports cost 40% less but carry fishier flavor. Watch the kitchen — they should grill each order fresh (15–20 minute wait). Pre-grilled eel reheated turns rubbery. Properly grilled eel has crisp edges from the second pass over charcoal, while the interior stays tender and moist.