Masagosoba

Takayama ramen is called chuka soba locally and it is made differently from almost anywhere else: instead of keeping the soup and the seasoning separate and combining them in the bowl, the stock and the soy tare are simmered together in one pot from the start. The result is a thin, dark, uniform broth with very fine curled noodles in it, and there is nothing to hide behind.

Masagosoba began as a street stall in 1938 and is generally named as the origin of the style. It is now in its third generation, the shop is small and plain, and the menu is one item — chuka soba, in one size. It opens at half past eleven, closes at four, and takes Wednesdays off plus irregular days, so it is worth ringing.