Kusatsu Onsen

**Yubatake viewing:** The yubatake is most atmospheric at dusk (17:00-18:00) when steam thickens in cooling air and evening lighting illuminates the wooden channels. Night viewing (20:00-22:00) offers illuminated steam with fewer tourists. Early morning (6:00-7:00) is nearly deserted with the strongest sulfur aroma. The elevated viewing platform (west side) provides the classic photo angle. Winter (December-February) sees dramatic steam clouds against snow. **Yumomi performance:** The Netsunoyu (熱乃湯) theater hosts yumomi demonstrations (¥600, 30 minutes, 6 shows daily 9:30-16:30). Performers in traditional costumes paddle large wooden boards in hot water while singing Kusatsu folk songs — it's part ritual, part entertainment. The performance explains Kusatsu's bathing culture and concludes with audience participation (try paddling yourself). Book 30 minutes ahead at the venue. **Public baths:** Kusatsu has 18 free/low-cost public baths (共同浴場, kyodo yokujyo) fed directly from the yubatake. Jizo-no-yu (地蔵の湯, free) and Shirahata-no-yu (白旗の湯, free) are centrally located, gender-separated, and authentically local. The water is extremely hot (45-46°C) and acidic — enter slowly, soak for 5-10 minutes max. Bring your own towel (or buy at shops, ¥300). Tattoos generally acceptable at public baths (less strict than major cities). **Sainokawara Rotemburo:** A 10-minute walk uphill, Sainokawara Rotemburo (西の河原露天風呂, ¥600) is a massive outdoor bath (500㎡, one of Japan's largest) set in a volcanic park with steaming streams and sulfurous rocks. The bath has mountain views and stargazing at night. Open 7:00-20:00 (winter 9:00-18:00). The walk passes through Sainokawara Park, a surreal landscape of steaming vents and barren rock.