Kawagoe Unagi

**Understanding the grades:** Unaju comes in three grades based on eel quantity: nami (並, regular, ¥2,800), jo (上, superior, ¥3,500), and toku-jo (特上, premium, ¥4,500). First-timers should order jo grade — sufficient eel to taste the quality without overwhelming. The toku-jo uses thicker, fattier eel sections but can be overly rich. Nami is adequate but small portions may leave you unsatisfied. **Wild vs farmed eel:** Wild eel season is July–August when prices are highest (¥1,000+ premium). The flavor is noticeably more complex — cleaner, less muddy, firmer texture. Ask 'tennen unagi arimasu ka?' (do you have natural eel?). Most restaurants post availability on entrance boards. Farmed eel is excellent year-round and more consistent in quality. **The tare sauce depth:** Ichinoya's tare has been continuously replenished (tsugi-tashi method) since the 1830s — each new batch incorporates remnants of the previous, creating layered complexity. Ask to see the tare pot if language allows; the kitchen sometimes grants requests. The sauce is never fully replaced, only supplemented, meaning you're tasting molecules from 190+ years ago. **Pairing and etiquette:** Green tea is the traditional pairing — the bitterness cuts the eel's richness. Avoid overpowering beverages like beer until after finishing. Eat the eel while hot (within 2 minutes of serving) for optimal texture. The rice absorbs tare sauce from below — mix lightly before eating rather than scraping eel off the top.