Shimanami Kaido

**Direction matters:** Start in Onomichi (Honshu side) and ride south to Imabari (Shikoku side). Prevailing winds blow south, pushing you along. The route drops slightly overall — not enough to coast, but your legs notice. Strong riders finish 70km in 4–5 hours. Casual cyclists need 6–8 hours including breaks. Half-measure option: ride 40km to Omishima Island, catch the ferry back (¥2,000, 90 minutes) instead of cycling the return. **E-bike choice:** Standard bikes cost ¥1,100; e-bikes cost ¥2,200. The route climbs 10–15% grades onto each bridge approach. On a standard bike, you'll grind uphill in low gear, thighs burning. E-bikes add electric assist that kicks in when you pedal uphill — you still work, but it feels like cycling on flat ground. Worth the extra ¥1,100 if you're not a regular cyclist. **Photo stops:** Sunrise Itoyama lookout on Oshima Island frames the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge's three suspended spans — world's only triple-suspension bridge. Tatara Bridge's 220-meter cable-stay tower dominates Tatara Shimanami Park on the Ikuchijima side. Dolce cafe on Omishima serves gelato (¥400) on a terrace overlooking the strait — cyclists pile bikes outside and sit with ice cream watching boats pass below. **Island detours:** Ikuchijima Island hides Kosan-ji Temple (¥1,400), where a businessman recreated famous temples in garish color — gold Buddha halls, rainbow gates, marble caves. It's wonderfully tacky or culturally offensive depending on your taste. Omishima Island holds Oyamazumi Shrine (¥1,000), storing 80% of Japan's designated National Treasure armor and swords in climate-controlled halls. **Luggage forwarding:** Rental shops ship bags to your destination hotel for ¥1,000 per bag, delivered same day if you drop off before 10:00. You cycle with just a small backpack for water, snacks, and a rain jacket. Book forwarding one day ahead when reserving your bike.