Tenjin Chikagai

**Best time:** Weekday 8:00–9:00 before shops open — the underground street is a commuter artery and the contrast between the European design and the Japanese morning commute ritual is fascinating to observe. **Hidden food stalls:** Several small counters in the eastern section serve hot food to commuters from 7:00am — particularly the tamagoyaki (sweet Japanese omelette) stands and the onigiri shops. These close by 10:00 and don't appear on any tourist map.