Hirakata Port Anko Nabe
Representative image — not a photograph of this location.
Monkfish is ugly, gelatinous and almost entirely edible — the Japanese phrase is that seven parts of it can be eaten, including the skin, the stomach, the gills and above all the liver, which is rich enough to be compared with foie gras. Ibaraki lands more of it than anywhere else, and Hirakata, a small bottom-trawling port at the northern tip of the prefecture, is where the fishermen's own version of the dish comes from.
That version is dobujiru, and it is not the same as the anko nabe sold inland. The liver is dry-fried in the pot first until the fat renders, miso is worked into it, and then the fish and vegetables go in with no stock and no water at all — the liquid comes entirely out of the ingredients. The result is thick, grey and extraordinarily rich. Traditionally it was cooked on the boat. Several small inns at the port serve it through the winter, and it is worth booking a room rather than doing it as a lunch.
Essential Information
Opening Hours
By reservation at individual inns; typically dinner service
Closed: Anko dishes served roughly mid-September to early May | Individual inns keep their own rest days
Entrance Fee
Varies by inn and by whether you stay overnight — confirm when booking
Best Season
November–March, when monkfish is in season and the liver is largest
Visit Duration
2 hours for a meal | Overnight recommended
Getting There
Access Information
Insider Guide
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