Innoshima Suigunjo

**The building is not historic.** It was built as a museum in castle form. The Murakami documents, armour and weapons inside are the genuine material. **Closed Thursdays.** Except public holidays. It is a small municipal museum and the rest day is strictly kept. **They were toll collectors and pilots.** The Murakami sold safe passage through currents that wrecked ships without local knowledge. Calling them pirates undersells a functioning maritime authority. **Three Murakami houses.** Innoshima, Noshima and Kurushima. This one covers the Innoshima branch; the Noshima material is across the water in Ehime. **It is a short detour off Shimanami.** Two kilometres from the interchange, which puts it within reach of a cycling day without derailing it.