Infiernos de Beppu

**Optimal route:** Start at Umi Jigoku (largest, most photogenic) at opening time (8:00) before tour bus crowds. The seven-hell circuit takes 2.5 hours at a steady pace. Bring towel — the steam creates humidity that dampens clothing. **Oniishi Bozu Jigoku bonus:** This hell is included in the 7-hell ticket but often skipped. The bubbling gray mud creates 'monk head' formations (bozu = bald monk) as bubbles rise and burst — hypnotic to watch and uncrowded. **Jigoku tamago:** Eggs and vegetables boiled in the hell steam are sold at Umi Jigoku and Kamado Jigoku (¥300 for 5 eggs). The mineral water gives eggs a subtle sulfur flavor. Fresh pudding steamed in hell steam (jigoku mushi pudding, ¥350) is the signature dessert.