Katsuo no Tataki

**Ordering at Hirome Market:** Walk the entire market first (8 minutes end-to-end) before committing. Look for stalls with visible straw-fire grills — the smell is unmistakable. Stalls marked 'warayaki' guarantee traditional preparation. Order the 'toku tataki' (premium grade, ¥1,200) — larger, fattier katsuo caught that morning. **Condiment layering:** The plate arrives with garlic slices, sliced onion, grated ginger, and ponzu. First bite: tataki alone. Second: add ponzu only. Third: build the full stack (garlic + ginger + onion). The progression shows you what each element contributes. Locals finish with a splash of yuzu juice. **Best season:** April–June and September–November are katsuo season in the Tosa Bay. Spring katsuo (hatsugatsuo) is leaner and more delicate; autumn katsuo (modorigatsuo) is fattier and richer. Both are excellent; autumn is more prized. **Pairing:** Kochi is sake country. Order a glass of Tosatsuru or Drunken Whale (both local breweries) — the clean, dry profile cuts through the richness of tataki perfectly. Hirome has dedicated sake counters. **For the premium experience:** Book a reservation at Meijiya (明神丸, near Hirome) — a tataki specialist with a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating. Their 'katsuo zukushi' course (¥4,500) includes three cuts of tataki, katsuo sashimi, and katsuo ochazuke. Reservations required (English by email).