Mt. Misen

**Hike-up-ropeway-down is the move:** Ascending via trail gives you the forest immersion and shrine discoveries; descending via ropeway saves your knees and delivers aerial views you can actually enjoy when you're not gasping uphill. The Daisho-in Course (大聖院コース) starts behind Daisho-in Temple, climbs through 500 rakan statues (stone Buddhas donated over centuries, many now moss-covered and anonymous), then enters primary forest with boulders the size of houses. It's 2.5 km with 530 meters elevation gain—steeper than Momijidani but more interesting. The Momijidani Course is wider, more groomed, 30% less grade, and packed with ropeway-avoiders. Omoto Course sees maybe 10 hikers per day; it's longer (3.3 km) and starts on the island's west side, requiring a bus or long walk just to reach the trailhead. If you're hiking up and roping down, buy a one-way ropeway ticket at Shishiiwa upper station (¥1,200). They sell them there; no need to pre-purchase. **Reikado Hall specifics:** The eternal flame (消えずの火, kiezu-no-hi) sits in an open hearth, burning logs continuously. Monks add wood every 3-4 hours. The flame was used to light the Peace Flame in Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park in 1964—a symbolic link between sacred continuity and atomic destruction. The iron kettle suspended over the flame boils 24/7; pilgrims drink the water believing it prevents illness. It tastes like smoky, slightly mineral well water. The hall has no windows, just a doorway, so the interior is perpetually dim and hazy with incense. You'll smell it 50 meters downwind. The Misen Hondo Hall next door houses a Thousand-Armed Kannon statue; it's less atmospheric but structurally older (parts date to 1201). Photos allowed in both halls, but the smoke makes everything murky—expect grainy shots unless you have a fast lens. **Weather window tactics:** The ropeway shuts down in winds exceeding 15 m/s, common December-February and during typhoon season (August-September). Check the ropeway website same-day before committing—they post suspension notices by 8:00 AM. Visibility: mornings (9:00-11:00) are clearest. By 13:00, maritime haze from the Inland Sea reduces visibility to 15-20 km; you lose Shikoku and Hiroshima City fades. Sunset from the summit is spectacular (the torii gate glows orange below you), but the last ropeway down departs Shishiiwa at 17:15 (16:30 in winter). Sunset is 17:45 in October, 17:00 in November. If you hike down in twilight, bring a headlamp—the Daisho-in Course has no lighting and gets pitch-black under tree cover. Rangers discourage this unless you're an experienced hiker. Autumn (late October-early November) is peak season for clear skies plus momiji (maple) foliage turning red; weekends see 1-hour ropeway waits. Go weekday mornings. Spring (April-early May) is second-best: fresh green leaves, azaleas blooming, fewer crowds. Avoid June (rainy season) and January-February (ropeway closed 50% of days due to wind).