Monte Fuji desde Shizuoka

**Fujinomiya vs Yoshida—the math that matters:** Fujinomiya cuts 2.5km off the climb (5km vs Yoshida's 7.5km) but packs 1,300 vertical meters into that distance, making it 23% steeper on average. The scree sections above the eighth station feel like climbing a down escalator—two steps up, slide back one. Your knees will remind you on the descent that this route uses the same path down (Yoshida has a separate, gentler bulldozer track for descending). Start at 1 PM, buy a beer and curry at the eighth station hut by 5 PM (¥800, tastes like salvation), sleep 9 PM to 2 AM in a ¥8,500 bunk with strangers' feet in your face, summit by 4:30 AM for sunrise, descend by noon before the August heat turns the volcanic dust into a convection oven. **Altitude sickness hits one in three climbers here.** At 3,776 meters you're at half the atmospheric pressure of sea level, which means your red blood cells are screaming for oxygen they can't get. First sign: headache that paracetamol won't touch. Then nausea, then you're leaning on rocks every 20 steps. The hut staff have seen it a thousand times—they'll give you canned oxygen (¥1,500, helps for 15 minutes) and tell you to descend if you're staggering. Acclimatize by spending 2 hours at the fifth station before starting (not just the bus turnaround time). Drink 4 liters minimum on the climb—your pee should be clear, not dark yellow. Skip alcohol the night before; ethanol at altitude is a fast track to vomiting at 3,200 meters. If you're confused or can't walk a straight line, go down immediately. HAPE (fluid in lungs) kills people on Fuji every few years. **Off-season Fuji watching—winter beats summer for visibility.** December through February delivers 60% clear-sky days versus 30% in summer (June-August is rainy season). Tanuki Lake (田貫湖) does mirror reflections at 6:30 AM before wind ripples the water; arrive 30 minutes early to claim shoreline position because photographers camp the spots. Shiraito Falls is Fuji's snowmelt emerging after 20-30 years percolating through volcanic basalt—150 meters wide, constant 12°C year-round, and the mountain looms behind like a stage backdrop. The falls' white threads (shira-ito) against Fuji's snow cone is the postcard shot, best light 10 AM to noon. Makaino Bokujo ranch has dairy cows grazing with Fuji filling the frame; kids can feed goats while you photograph. Winter access needs a car—buses drop to 3 daily off-season.