Okonomiyaki d'Hiroshima

**Okonomimura navigation:** Okonomimura (お好み村, 'Okonomiyaki Village') concentrates 24 stalls in a compact 4-story building, making it the easiest entry point for first-timers. Each stall is family-run with slightly different recipes and toppings. Second-floor stalls tend to have more English menus and tourist-friendly atmospheres; upper floors have more locals and traditional vibes. Stall #8 (八昌, Hassho) and #18 (みっちゃん, Micchan) are frequent recommendations, though quality is uniformly high. Sit at the teppan counter (not tables) to watch the chef's technique — the entire cooking process unfolds before you, and the hot griddle keeps your okonomiyaki warm. **Ordering guidance:** Standard Hiroshima okonomiyaki is 'niku-tama-soba' (肉玉そば) — pork, egg, yakisoba noodles (¥850–1,000). Upgrades include: adding cheese (チーズ, +¥150), oysters (牡蠣, +¥300–500, seasonal Sept–March), squid (イカ, +¥150), or double noodles (W麺, +¥100). For first-timers, stick with standard niku-tama-soba to appreciate the baseline recipe. 'Udon' instead of 'soba' substitutes thicker noodles (different texture, equally valid). Toppings are applied post-cooking: okonomiyaki sauce (pre-applied by chef), mayonnaise, aonori seaweed, and dried bonito flakes — adjust to taste. **Eating technique:** Okonomiyaki arrives on the teppan or a plate, often with a small metal spatula (kote/hera). Cut bite-sized portions with the spatula, eating directly from the griddle (traditional style) or transferring to a plate. The layered structure means each bite contains all components — batter, cabbage, noodles, pork, egg. Don't deconstruct or mix it (that's Osaka-style). Pair with beer or Hiroshima's Sapporo draft — the crispy-savory flavors match perfectly with cold lager.